IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: The closest airport is Norfolk International. Mynonstop flight on United cost about $250 roundtrip. US Airways andNorthwest also fly there from Chicago. From the airport, drive easton I-64 to Battlefield Boulevard (Route 168) south. Then take Route158 to the Outer Banks.STAYING THERE: Call the Dare County Tourist Board at (800) 446-6262for a Guide to the Outer Banks. I asked several realty companieslisted within the guide to send their brochures. I used Sun Realtyat (800) 334-4745, but there are many others. The guide also detailsmotels/hotels and B&Bs as well as campgrounds.PLAYING THERE: For organized outdoor fun, it's hard to beat KittyHawk Kites. They'll teach you to hang glide, paraglide, wall climbor kayak. My five-flight beginner glider lesson at Jockey's RidgeState Park is $69, and there are a variety of packages. The companyalso rents windriders, bikes, in-line skates and kayaks. Forreservations and details, call (800) 334-4777.With the wrecks of more than 1,500 ships along its sea floor, thecoast along the Outer Banks is known as the Graveyard of theAtlantic. Many dive shops offer charters offshore. Fishing also isa popular activity.The Dare County Tourist Bureau also produces a golf and tennisguide. It has details on eight courses and numbers to call for golfpackages. If you know you're going to golf, it's good to call aheadfor a tee time during the high season. The courses were quitecrowded.WHAT TO SEE: For information on the Lost Colony drama, call (919)473-3414. For the Wright Brothers National Memorial, call (919)441-7430. The Elizabeth II State Historic Site can be reached at(919) 473-1144. The North Carolina Aquarium is at (919) 473-3494;the Elizabethan Gardens, at (919) 473-3234. Fort Raleigh NationalHistoric Site is (919) 473-5772.EATING THERE: The Sanderling Inn serves a mix of fresh seafood andAmerican fare. We enjoyed everything at this upscale spot. Alsorecommended are the Collington Cafe near Kill Devil Hills and OceanBoulevard, which is on the Beach Road in Kitty Hawk. Kelly's, aboutthe only Outer Banks night-life available, also has a nicerestaurant.We had a nice, inexpensive lunch at the Keepers Galley (yummysoft-shell crabs and a great shrimp salad) and a disappointing one atChili Peppers. The food arrived cold, the appetizer came after theentrees and the tacos were tasteless. Awful Arthur's Oyster Bar isperhaps the most popular on the Outer Banks. We got there at 5 p.m.and waited 90 minutes for a table and an hour for food. The food wasfine, but not worth the wait.Slammin' Sammy's only so-so food was accompanied by a disturbingtrend in our vacation: surly service. From the classy Currituck Clubto convenience stores, we almost universally encountered rude servicepeople. I hope it was just high-season fatigue.